GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #17: PYRAMIDS & PASOS – FURTHER ADVENTURES IN LIMA

While we had to cancel yesterday’s organized tour of Puruchuco and Hualla Huacamara – two archeological ruins in the Lima region – we actually hit the former site and visited Hualla Pucllana, another pyramid site under excavation on our own with a car and driver. While more expensive than the tour, this was substantially cheaper by a about a factor of four than the price of the cruise ship for a half day of private touring. But Holland America guarantees that if you rent through them, they will not leave you behind, or will help you catch up to the ship without charge. Since we were in Callao two days, and since this was not an independent cowboy outfit, we opted for the less expensive method and were not disappointed.

So why bother seeing one or two more pyramids? Well, why bother seeing another painting? Besides, if we hadn’t gone, we would have missed the fire near Huaca Pucllana, which seemed like a latter-day Inca sacrifice, nor would we have seen any of the hairless dogs for which the region is famous, or Peruvian guinea pigs (such a popular local dish, that one 17th century painting of the Last Supper shows guinea pig being served) ….

But today started off with a visit to the National Museum of Anthropology, Archeology, & History of Peru, which like the British Museum, allows non-flash photography. These ceramics are amazing and we could have easily have spent twice the time. Interestingly enough, for those who love/hate Norfolk’s decorated mermaids (or whatever generic sculptures your town specializes in) in Lima it’s cows.

Next on the list was Pachacamac, a pre-Inca and Inca site outside the city. Aridness surrounded by a sea of green. Part of the site, particularly the Palazzo de las Mamacuna – has
been restored, but what is truly impressive is its scope, with sun-dried bricks (fortunately it rained very infrequently), the incoming “boulevard” which led to this miraculous center and the slightly sunken pits left by looters (at least one stone-lipped guard still patrols the site with a rifle).

The surprise of the trip was our visit to Hacienda Mamacona, a hacienda where the Peruvian Paso (or pacing horses) are bred. The owner of this ranch pulled off the difficult feat of mixing a commercial enterprise with what seemed like genuine hospitality – the entertainment while a bit folk-lorical – was not over the top, and the horses were the stars of the show! We not only caught a “horse show,” but Mary even got a ride on the smooth-walking Peruvian horse. By the time the buses headed back to Callao, we felt that we had been both entertained and educated. (Apparently, the “candlelight dinner at Casa Solera Aliega” the previous night pulled things off in a similar manner.) Passing through Miraflores, we were glad that we hadn’t joined the thousands at the beach! Sam’s only regret was “small potatoes” – he left Peru without tasting any of the spectacular local varieties with their unique colors and shape.