GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #36: IN THE GUTS OF THE SHIP

Having checked out the workings of the kitchen and the bridge, what else is left? Well, how about the engine room?  Mary spoke to the Front Desk, who suggested that we pen a written request for such a tour. Two days later, voila! We received an invitation to see the “innards” of the Amsterdam. (Requests like this do not always succeed; we were told that such chores were anathema to the Amsterdam’s previous captain.)

This tour differed as much from that of the bridge as an afternoon scramble does from a game of … bridge. While the Amsterdam’s engine room is as neat as any Sam has seen, it is not the place to wear anything you’re planning to keep on as “smart casual” for dinner!  We were taken down into an “alternate universe” aboard the ship – a part most passengers never see – with long broad corridors and storage lockers. Craig John Stephenson, Third Engineer, ushered us into the engine room’s headquarters – an area deceptively like the bridge, with its own banks of dials and gauges. Almost predictably, Craig was born north of the Border; the Scottish appear to have an affinity for engine rooms and it is rare to find a vessel without a representative as engineer.

We were given yellow foam earplugs, a very good idea in view of the various “levels of hell” we would subsequently visit. Unfortunately, this made hearing our guide a bit problematic, but you’ll hopefully get an idea of what goes on “in the belly of the beast” from the accompanying pictures. At least, we preserved our hearing!

We learned that while the ship had five engines onboard (with if memory serves correctly, 24 heads under 12 covers – that would be a valve job!), she only needed four at any given time and that if necessary, they could be completely torn apart and repaired while at sea – take that all you land-locked mechanics, who can’t handle having the earth move under your feet! We toured the extensive air-handling/cooling systems that the ship needs just to run, the garbage disposal area, looked at the sewage storage tanks, and – don’t get too close – walked right past the incinerators (over 600 and 900 degrees Celsius if memory serves us correctly.A quite impressive array of equipment that all hummed smoothly along as we sliced through the southern seas, destination Africa.

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #35: UP ON THE BRIDGE

One of the great things about a sea voyage is that it is what you make it You can spend all your time in your room, feeding the slot machines, or stuffing your face in any one of the number of restaurants. Or you can use the opportunity to learn a bit more.

While it was never advertised, a query by Mary to the front desk got us both included on a tour of the bridge. This is the “brain” from which the ship is navigated.


We gathered in the Crow’s Nest and were taken down by Officer Leon Wageman, who explained the workings of the radar, the astropod, and stabilizers. He deftly dealt with questions ranging from vessel avoidance to piracy (admittedly Sam brought the subject up, but he wasn’t the only one to ask). You can’t always count on tours like this, but we feel they enhanced our “cruise experience” and appreciate the fact that Holland America put this on.
Make sure you see if one is available when you take cruise ….

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #15: HOLLAND AMERICA GRAND WORLD VOYAGES

With a day at sea, and a bit worn out on the food side, we’d like to say something about the recent composition of the Line’s Grand World Voyages – not an exhaustive survey, but a sort of summary of the past five years, the current trip, and what’s already being planned. That way, if you have any interest in trying yourself, you won’t have to start from scratch.

First, the trip’s always start at the same time of year – early to late January, although more recently there’s been emphasis on the earlier dates. This is good insofar as you get away for the cold winter months, but Christmas or other plans need to be factored in, as they have the potential of disrupting your preparations. The Holland America vessels employed tend to vary, but have included the Prisendam (2005-06), the Amsterdam (2007-08, 2010-11), and the Rotterdam (2009). Information on 2011 is currently available, which suggests if you really want to plan ahead, you can have at least a year to do so.

While Los Angeles was the port of embarkation in 2005, all the other recent trips have departed from Fort Lauderdale. In some cases, a complete circuit is made; in others, you are dropped on the west coast – usually in Seattle or Los Angeles. (East Coast passengers may also be able to disembark in New York.) All trips tend to end sometime in late April, having a general duration of slightly over 100 days, or a bit more than three months.

The only major rule on ports is that nothing remains stationary. In order to encourage repeat business, the Line varies its itinerary, and when possible throws in new ports of call. This year, for example, the Amsterdam is paying a maiden call to Isla Robinson Crusoe, Chile, while next year will feature first-time stops in Oban, New Zealand and Palau. If one itinerary doesn’t seem attractive, wait a year and something else will pop up.

We were particularly taken by the opportunity to round both Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope, as well as transiting the Panama Canal. Next year, the Amsterdam will miss both of the Capes, but will add the Suez Canal and the Mediterranean. Over the years, there have been other changes in emphasis.

In 2005, for example, the Prinsendam made stops in Hawaii, Kiribati, Western Samoa, Tonga, New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, Brunei, Hong Kong, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, India, Sri Lanka, the Seychelles, Mauritius, Reunion, South Africa, Namibia, St. Helena, Ascension Island, Brazil, Barbados, and the Bahamas.

2006 saw visits to Barbados, Devil’s Island, multiple stops in Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, South Georgia, Tristan da Cunha, South Africa, Madagascar, the Comoros, Tanzania, Kenya, the Seychelles, India, Oman, the Suez Canal, Egypt, Turkey, Greece, Malta, Italy, France, Spain, and Madeira.

The Amsterdam's 2007 Cruise did the Panama Canal before stopping in Ecuador, Peru, Easter Island, Tahiti, American Samoa, Fiji, New Caledonia, Australia, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, India, Dubai, Oman, the Suez Canal and Egypt, Israel, Turkey, Greece, Croatia, Italy, Monaco, Spain, Gibraltar, and Portugal.

The following year it was the Cayman Islands, Costa Rica, a transit of the Panama Canal and Panama, the Marquesas, Tahiti, Bora Bora, Samoa, Tonga, New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, Brunei, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Singapore, India, Oman, Egypt, and the Suez Canal, Turkey, Russia, the Ukraine, Greece, Italy, Croatia, Malta, Gibraltar, Portugal and Madeira, and __ (Ireland Isle).

Last year, the Rotterdam hit Columbia, the Panama Canal, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Mexico, Los Angeles and Hawaii, Vanuatu, New Caledonia, Australia, Indonesia, Hong Kong and Shanghai, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, India, Dubai, Oman, the Seychelles, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, South Africa, Namibia, St. Helena, Ascension, Devil’s Island, Trinidad, Barbados, and St. Bartholomew.

This year we’re going where we’re going – follow this blog and you’ll eventually find out! In 2011, however, the Amsterdam hits Grand Cayman, Costa Rica, transits the Panama Canal, stops in Ecuador, Peru, Easter Island, Tahiti, Bora Bora, the Cook Islands, Niue, makes multiple stops in New Zealand and Australia and touches at Papua, New Guinea, Palau, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Singapore, India, Dubai, Oman, Jordan, the Suez Canal, and Egypt, Turkey, Greece, Italy, Spain and Madeira!

There’s no dull moment, even for repeat cruisers, and if you don’t like the itinerary one year, just wait until the next comes around!

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #11: A FEW MORE POINTS ABOUT SHIPBOARD LIFE

OK, as we charge down the western coast of South America, let’s take a bit of time to say something more about the Amsterdam. It really IS a good idea to preplan what you are taking and not assume you’ll be able to buy anything you need onboard – there are several shops, but the selection available is a contrast of some of the smartest and some of the dumbest marketing we’ve ever seen. Take the Logo Shop. This usually handles ship and line themed items, and is a bit like the shop at a good resort hotel. Of course, you never know how much of anything they’ll have, so the best thing is to buy early. Score one for the Line. Jackets, sweaters, and hoodies, shirts, a lot of the items are exactly what you would expect, classic and understated. Someone, however, has made the decision to push a series of goods dealing with “the whole dam line.” OK, it’s mildly clever and you could see a t-shirt or two perhaps, but the emphasis Holland America gives it is a lot like Cracker Barrel’s breakfast “coming right up …” campaign. We supposed it is better than “Holland America, not yet underwater,” but still leaves a bit to be desired. We are told that the goods will change during the voyage, but seeing is believing.

The Liquor Shop is much, much worse, if you understand that it includes the necessaries you’d buy in a corner store. You’d think they might have a guidebook or two for sale since they stock paperbacks, particularly right before we hit the appropriate port? You’d be wrong! There’s something like fifteen novels, sunscreen, batteries, cigarettes, alcohol, etc. etc. It’s like a motel convenience store on steroids.

If you want to buy high-end jewelry, however, then the Amsterdam can help you. It’s not our style – indeed this trip was in lieu of a “rock.” Mary does confess that she sat through an emerald lecture to be entered in the following draw – they didn’t make a sale and she didn’t win the stone. The people doing the offerings rotate on and off (H. Stern, for example, who deal with South American gemstones, will have their representative leave the ship by Argentina, we assume to get ready for someone specializing in diamonds or other African stones).

There’s also an art gallery (but realistic views of nature are not its strong point) as well as a photography studio. This is probably the most useful of all the shops, the photographers are quite helpful and have a number of packages for sale covering different groups of pictures – the final selection can be made at the end of the voyage. We believe they’re betting correctly – that at that point most people won’t want to leave any of the views behind. One of the photographers even filmed our progress through the Panama Canal from a helicopter as part of a series of DVD offerings.

Of equal value, but not directly selling anything is the digital lab aboard run by Microsoft. Jeff, the tech, not only holds daily classes while at sea, but also has “office hours.” During which, he will answer any difficult questions. We spoke to him, for example, about reducing and sending the photographs with which some of these postings are illustrated.

So there you have it – ranging from the useful and essential to the – well not so much. As your ship ID card is equivalent to plastic, you have to watch out and curb those urges to spend! There are plenty of opportunities in each port!

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #10: MONKEY ISLAND

We suppose there are two sorts of people who come to Panama; those who ignore the Canal and those who don’t. This puts us somewhere in the middle. It’s a great monument to what we’ve done as a nation, and it was a sad day when Jimmy Carter gave it up – particularly as a dictator was in control of Panama when the agreement was made rather than a freely-elected president (says something about old Jimmy, doesn’t it?). At the same time, you can’t blame the Panamanians for wanting it back – our guide put the blame on a double-dealing Frenchman and who’s to say her nay. Anyway, we were looking for a tour that was not Canal-fixated, but which didn’t ignore the structure either.

So what were our choices? Well, there was the Authentic Embrera Indian Visit – involving a trip by dugout canoe to one of their villages, but that would have been too obvious, wouldn’t it? Choice number two was an Aerial Tram and Ecological Encounter. This did involve a frog exhibit and serpentarium stop, which might have filled in some of the gaps from Costa Rica, but at the time we booked, it seemed a bit of a rerun. The Shaping of Panama hit some of the sites of Old Panama, as well as the modern city, but did not stop enough to suit us. (Be very careful to check for actual stops – as opposed to “you will see” which might be a drive by with not even time enough for a picture.”) Miraflores Lock Observation Center was Canal-oriented and we found was also included in our eventual choice Monkey Island Adventure. After all, who can argue with nature, and what was good enough for National Geographic, The Discovery Channel and Animal Planet (all of whom have filmed here) was good enough for us.

After an initial drive to reach the dock along which Mary spied termite nests in the trees (apparently they don’t like flooding), we met Carl, obviously a Midwesterner, judging from his sense of humor. Our object was to see howler and capuchin monkeys in the wild – never a guarantee.

We edged out into the Canal and were treated to a closer look at some of the sites that we had seen the previous day, as well as a more in-depth account of the Canal’s history. Even as we watched, changes were being made which would bring the new enhanced Canal into being – hopefully in time for the Centennial of its opening. Like a kid, it’s growing before your very eyes, so now is a good time to see it!

“Monkey Island” is in fact a series of islands left by the builders of the Canal. We caught a short glimpse of howlers at the first stop, (but no pictures), but really struck gold with the capuchins on the next island. The whole family was in trees down by the water and through a bit of dexterous maneuvering (and the bribe of a banana by Carl), the entire clan came down close and one even jumped onto the boat! It may sound like a zoo experience, but it wasn’t. And the chance to see these primates (and the top of the odd croc) while revisiting the Canal was quite fulfilling.

The final stop before returning shipside was the Miraflores Lock Observation Center. This is really quite a good little multimedia museum with several old films playing, a mocked up “bridge” to steer through part of the Canal, and an outside observation platform where you can watch transits in progress. We were also able to fit in the English version of a ten-minute movie (it also plays in Spanish) – history as seen from the Panamanian side. Our only critique would be of the gift shop; while French and Spanish language books on the Canal were available. It had sold out of the English version. (Hello, Museum people, does that tell you something about the composition of your visitors??? You lost a bunch of sales, and are losing more every day the English-language version is not restocked.) Sam, of course, bought the French version, acting in the belief that he would not find the English pamphlet for sale back at the port, as indeed was the case.

So Monkey Island was thoroughly satisfying. If we ever come again, however, we want to see Old Panama City (with time to explore – we got the English-language guide for that!) and might even try the dugout canoe visit to the Embrera.