GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #12: MANTA, ECUADOR

Sam has to say that Ecuador is one of his favorite stops to date! What’s not to like about a country where not just children, but road workers and passersby stop and WAVE at your bus!

We had a couple choices about what to do on our day in port, but they narrowed themselves down nicely. First there was “Hemisphere Crossing & Quito World Heritage Site,” We had alreadycrossed the Equator (and received the certificate to prove it, although King Neptune’s visit was postponed) and hope to visit Quito someday as part of a trip to the Galapagos, so at almost a $1000 a pop, this was too pricey. On the other hand, “Fine Panama Hats” and “Manta & Montecristi” were both tours which dealt with Panama hats (a major product of Ecuador – they were apparently used in Panama during construction of the Canal, which is where they acquired their name). These seemed a bit too sponsored. We settled for the “Machalilla” tour, visiting that National Park, and got a stop to watch work on hats anyway.

Speaking of this, it’s hard to come away without one (unless you let a wind blow it overboard, which happened to one lady on the ship). Prices vary according to weave – tightly woven hats take much more time to produce. But stopping to see the early stages of production in which fibers for the finished product are cooked and separated is a real eye-opener and offers some wonderful photographs. (Figure a cheap hat will run you about $20 and a fine one about three times as much, although you can bargain a bit!) One of the things which most impressed Mary was the change in ecology based on altitude – this can range from anywhere from lush jungle to arid desert, but was more at the desert end of the scale when we were there.

Machalilla National Park is a little bit of everything. Ecuador’s only coastal park, it boasts archeology (a quite impressive small museum), plenty of spectacular scenery, and a resident local population, many of whom are involved in helping in the park. A short nature walk offered everything from lessons in local husbandry to an exotic bird or two, to (Sam’s favorite) very small dung beetles, who just like the scarabs, rolled small balls of you-know-what around. You have to look close to see them though. We stopped at Mantaraya Lodge for a set buffet – good local fish and apparently the price of accommodation is about $50 a night (and we mean $50 – Ecuador uses the US dollar as their currency – prices apparently went up when this was instituted, but it has provided a measure of economic stability and things are still inexpensive by US standards).

Finally, there was time for a walk on the beach opposite Isle de la Plata, where Drake’s men allegedly divided Spanish loot. A beautiful location – you can even find chunks of Ecuador’s only coral reef washed up on the sand. Seeing slices of Ecuadoran life, in the kapok trees, the houses painted in “election colors” (something neither sympathizers of McCain or Obama appeared to have tried state-side), to the ebb and flow of everyday life on the side of the road. It’s a beautiful country with surprises around every corner, and we didn’t even make it up to the mountains!

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #10: MONKEY ISLAND

We suppose there are two sorts of people who come to Panama; those who ignore the Canal and those who don’t. This puts us somewhere in the middle. It’s a great monument to what we’ve done as a nation, and it was a sad day when Jimmy Carter gave it up – particularly as a dictator was in control of Panama when the agreement was made rather than a freely-elected president (says something about old Jimmy, doesn’t it?). At the same time, you can’t blame the Panamanians for wanting it back – our guide put the blame on a double-dealing Frenchman and who’s to say her nay. Anyway, we were looking for a tour that was not Canal-fixated, but which didn’t ignore the structure either.

So what were our choices? Well, there was the Authentic Embrera Indian Visit – involving a trip by dugout canoe to one of their villages, but that would have been too obvious, wouldn’t it? Choice number two was an Aerial Tram and Ecological Encounter. This did involve a frog exhibit and serpentarium stop, which might have filled in some of the gaps from Costa Rica, but at the time we booked, it seemed a bit of a rerun. The Shaping of Panama hit some of the sites of Old Panama, as well as the modern city, but did not stop enough to suit us. (Be very careful to check for actual stops – as opposed to “you will see” which might be a drive by with not even time enough for a picture.”) Miraflores Lock Observation Center was Canal-oriented and we found was also included in our eventual choice Monkey Island Adventure. After all, who can argue with nature, and what was good enough for National Geographic, The Discovery Channel and Animal Planet (all of whom have filmed here) was good enough for us.

After an initial drive to reach the dock along which Mary spied termite nests in the trees (apparently they don’t like flooding), we met Carl, obviously a Midwesterner, judging from his sense of humor. Our object was to see howler and capuchin monkeys in the wild – never a guarantee.

We edged out into the Canal and were treated to a closer look at some of the sites that we had seen the previous day, as well as a more in-depth account of the Canal’s history. Even as we watched, changes were being made which would bring the new enhanced Canal into being – hopefully in time for the Centennial of its opening. Like a kid, it’s growing before your very eyes, so now is a good time to see it!

“Monkey Island” is in fact a series of islands left by the builders of the Canal. We caught a short glimpse of howlers at the first stop, (but no pictures), but really struck gold with the capuchins on the next island. The whole family was in trees down by the water and through a bit of dexterous maneuvering (and the bribe of a banana by Carl), the entire clan came down close and one even jumped onto the boat! It may sound like a zoo experience, but it wasn’t. And the chance to see these primates (and the top of the odd croc) while revisiting the Canal was quite fulfilling.

The final stop before returning shipside was the Miraflores Lock Observation Center. This is really quite a good little multimedia museum with several old films playing, a mocked up “bridge” to steer through part of the Canal, and an outside observation platform where you can watch transits in progress. We were also able to fit in the English version of a ten-minute movie (it also plays in Spanish) – history as seen from the Panamanian side. Our only critique would be of the gift shop; while French and Spanish language books on the Canal were available. It had sold out of the English version. (Hello, Museum people, does that tell you something about the composition of your visitors??? You lost a bunch of sales, and are losing more every day the English-language version is not restocked.) Sam, of course, bought the French version, acting in the belief that he would not find the English pamphlet for sale back at the port, as indeed was the case.

So Monkey Island was thoroughly satisfying. If we ever come again, however, we want to see Old Panama City (with time to explore – we got the English-language guide for that!) and might even try the dugout canoe visit to the Embrera.

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #9: TRANSITTING THE PANAMA CANAL

There are plenty of ways to transit the Panama Canal. Richard Halliburton swam it in 1928 (and paid a toll of $.36, allegedly the lowest on record). One of the nicest ways has to be doing it on a cruise ship like the Amsterdam. Just like tailgating at a football game, there’s a whole ethos about how to do it properly. We’ve only transited once and are still tyros. But here’s what we have learned that could put you ahead.

First, read up. In advance! Probably the best general history is David McCulloch’s The Path Between the Seas, and yes, the Amsterdam does have a copy, but you can imagine how popular it has been before the transit (after is another matter …). For those with a slightly less voluminous interest who still want a good background, try Anne Vipond’s Panama Canal By Cruise Ship, which is a less complicated overview. But have some idea what you’re going to see before you see it!

Second, be up early. Not only because you don’t want to miss anything, but because there are a limited number of prime seats from which to enjoy the show. While the Lido Restaurant is nice, taking pictures through streaked glass may not be your thing. There are seats out by the pool, but only a few undercover, if a rainstorm blows up like one did for us.

“So the vessel will be transiting the Canal most of the day,” you say. “Why should I bother to get up early?” Because some things you don’t see twice (like the crocodile barely visible outside of Gatun Lock). Also, while you may not care about seeing the whole shebang, if you can’t respond appropriately when someone asks you about the Gatun Locks and Lake, Culebra Cut, or Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Lock, they are entitled to wonder if you slept through everything. Mind you, there will always be one-uppers. We talked to some Edmundtonians, who had transited three times. Earlier that morning, they had talked to a woman who had done it five, and whose immediate question was, “Have you done it both ways?”

We were quite happy starting off with breakfast outside the Lido Restaurant at Gatun Locks, Taking a breather and viewing the Lake from the Crow’s Nest, and Sports Deck where we had the option of inside or outside views going through the Cut and the final two locks. We anchored off Panama City. (Our next dispatch will be about Monkey Island ….) And be warned they are enlarging the Canal, so if you don’t see it quickly, someone is bound to say, “Oh, you should have seen it before ….”)

Mary wants to add that the transit will take about eight to ten hours, depending on the traffic. Suggestion to Holland America– a signed certificate of passage would have been nice.

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #8: PUERTO LIMON, COSTA RICA

Maybe it was a mistake for the two of us to take a massage at the spa on board ship. Not that the pummeling and kneading wasn’t first rate, but after 50 minutes of such treatment, there was no way that we were going to make dinner in the La Fontaine Dining Room, less a formal dinner. Instead we hit the Lido, where the food was first rate, and then “sought the great white biscuit” to be ready for Puerto Limon, Costa Rica, early the next morning.

Breakfast in the room was about fifteen minutes late. Everybody else having had the same . Tugs helped us land at the port facility, which is one of three in the region. Carlos Solera, who hails from Costa Rica, had told us not to expect too much of the town, which was spot-on. The port is way nicer than its immediate surroundings and is one of those places you’re glad booked a program! The Amsterdam has this drill down pat; we were very efficiently disembarked to find ourselves in what looked like a New York City canyon, with the Amsterdam towering on one side and her sister ship, the Zuiderdam (or was it the Prinsendam?) towering on the other. Suggestion for Holland America– it wouldn’t have changed our plans, as we wanted to see something of Costa Rica, but on similar occasions, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to offer a shipboard tour of the sister vessel.

Anyway, Holland America offered seven options for tours: (1) Coastal Highlights & Banana Plantation, (2) The Tortuegro Canals, (3) Caribbean Train, Eco Cruise & Countryside, (4) Rainforest Aerial Tram, (5) Sloth Sanctuary & Jungle Canoeing, (6) Rainforest Horseback Riding, (7) Veruguana Rainforest Aerial Tram & Research Station. We picked #4 as being the longestand we’ll give you our feedback below.

The only other tour we heard anything about is #3 – the couple who went on it had enjoyed the eco cruise and countryside segments, but reported that the train was old.


OK, Rainforest & Aerial Tram. This seven-and-a-half hour segment involves about two hours of travel to the site – adjacent to one of the country’s national parks – and an equally lengthy return. The bus time was not wasted, however, as our guide started lecturing right off the bat and kept it up for all four hours except for a thirty-minute siesta. We’d rate him as superior, and the countryside to and from the site well worth the look. Outside Puerto Limon, things get, well, more scenic. We caught a glimpse of some of the country’s volcanoes (both active and inactive) and saw a three-toed sloth and later his two-toed relative up trees by the side of the road.

They apparently play it by ear at the reserve, sending you on a “nature walk” if the line is too long. We were able to get right aboard. Each car holds six, as well as the local guide. Ours was knowledgeable and, once he warmed up, almost as good as our group guide. Unlike a zoo, what you see can really vary. We saw no monkeys, but another sloth, as well as several Morpho butterflies, a white hawk, and learned a lot about the profuse vegetation. The tram goes out at a lower level, returning at treetop height, which allows you to see two strata of “habitation.” Cars pause at intervals, though it is the luck of the draw whether you are near something interesting or not. Another group spotted a toucan, partially made up for by the fact that Sam saw one flying over the road on the bus trip back. On the guided walk, sights ranged from “trap-door spiders,” to tapir prints to, yes indeed, army ants (as the guide noted, “The only army in Costa Rica!”).

The tour included lunch with chicken, rice, beans, fried plantains, corn, fruit, etc. The refuge also has a shop with high prices, but a good selection of books in English, as well as Spanish (though surprisingly, no animal track casts). We were a bit disappointed to find that the celebrated Costa Rican frogs are apparently out only in the early morning, nor did mention of a butterfly (“mariposa” – makes you wonder what Yosemite’s Mariposa Grove was actually named for …) exhibition materialize. Still, we both consider the outing time well spent and worth doing for visitors with limited time. Made it back to the ship with fifteen minutes to spare before departure (lengthened to forty-five as some passenger is/was in the hospital).

Next? Transit through the Panama Canal….