GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #36: IN THE GUTS OF THE SHIP

Having checked out the workings of the kitchen and the bridge, what else is left? Well, how about the engine room?  Mary spoke to the Front Desk, who suggested that we pen a written request for such a tour. Two days later, voila! We received an invitation to see the “innards” of the Amsterdam. (Requests like this do not always succeed; we were told that such chores were anathema to the Amsterdam’s previous captain.)

This tour differed as much from that of the bridge as an afternoon scramble does from a game of … bridge. While the Amsterdam’s engine room is as neat as any Sam has seen, it is not the place to wear anything you’re planning to keep on as “smart casual” for dinner!  We were taken down into an “alternate universe” aboard the ship – a part most passengers never see – with long broad corridors and storage lockers. Craig John Stephenson, Third Engineer, ushered us into the engine room’s headquarters – an area deceptively like the bridge, with its own banks of dials and gauges. Almost predictably, Craig was born north of the Border; the Scottish appear to have an affinity for engine rooms and it is rare to find a vessel without a representative as engineer.

We were given yellow foam earplugs, a very good idea in view of the various “levels of hell” we would subsequently visit. Unfortunately, this made hearing our guide a bit problematic, but you’ll hopefully get an idea of what goes on “in the belly of the beast” from the accompanying pictures. At least, we preserved our hearing!

We learned that while the ship had five engines onboard (with if memory serves correctly, 24 heads under 12 covers – that would be a valve job!), she only needed four at any given time and that if necessary, they could be completely torn apart and repaired while at sea – take that all you land-locked mechanics, who can’t handle having the earth move under your feet! We toured the extensive air-handling/cooling systems that the ship needs just to run, the garbage disposal area, looked at the sewage storage tanks, and – don’t get too close – walked right past the incinerators (over 600 and 900 degrees Celsius if memory serves us correctly.A quite impressive array of equipment that all hummed smoothly along as we sliced through the southern seas, destination Africa.

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #35: UP ON THE BRIDGE

One of the great things about a sea voyage is that it is what you make it You can spend all your time in your room, feeding the slot machines, or stuffing your face in any one of the number of restaurants. Or you can use the opportunity to learn a bit more.

While it was never advertised, a query by Mary to the front desk got us both included on a tour of the bridge. This is the “brain” from which the ship is navigated.


We gathered in the Crow’s Nest and were taken down by Officer Leon Wageman, who explained the workings of the radar, the astropod, and stabilizers. He deftly dealt with questions ranging from vessel avoidance to piracy (admittedly Sam brought the subject up, but he wasn’t the only one to ask). You can’t always count on tours like this, but we feel they enhanced our “cruise experience” and appreciate the fact that Holland America put this on.
Make sure you see if one is available when you take cruise ….

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #30: MISSING THE FALKLANDS

Into every life a little rain must fall. Actually, this was not rain, but a force three gale. We realize that most of you have been having weather that is far worse, but as Dr. Johnson succinctly put it, being in a ship at sea is like being in a prison with a chance of drowning.  Conditions in Port Stanley were not such that a landing in tenders could be contemplated, so the Amsterdam sailed to the west of the Falklands, and our chance to see the King penguins there was “gone with the wind.” 

This is not as uncommon as one might think. We’ve talked to at least one person on board, who has now missed the Falklands on three occasions. The Captain was a bit dubious at first about Isla Robinson Crusoe (where there have been at least three deaths due to the earthquake-related tsunami) and there has been at least one port change later on in the voyage (which we’ll cover when we get to it). As someone aboard said, “If you look at your tickets real close, you’ll that none of the stops are guaranteed!” 

The turbulence we encountered made it clear that this was a good decision (something that was ratified by the port agent in Stanley), and we can live, at least for a while, without seeing the hulks in the harbor, visiting Goose Green, or buying stamps at the local post office. There is, however, a lesson here. Travel is a privilege, not a right. If you’re sitting on the floor, surrounded by both shores of tropical beaches, cliffs of ice, and the like just remember that even after you have your tickets in hand and have boarded the ship, there’s no guarantee that you’ll land in that special port of call. Or it may be raining, or you may have sunburn or (as happened to friends in La Serena, Chile) your camera may be snitched.

So just enjoy each day as it comes and “go with the flow.” Maybe we’ll make the Falklands next time.

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #15: HOLLAND AMERICA GRAND WORLD VOYAGES

With a day at sea, and a bit worn out on the food side, we’d like to say something about the recent composition of the Line’s Grand World Voyages – not an exhaustive survey, but a sort of summary of the past five years, the current trip, and what’s already being planned. That way, if you have any interest in trying yourself, you won’t have to start from scratch.

First, the trip’s always start at the same time of year – early to late January, although more recently there’s been emphasis on the earlier dates. This is good insofar as you get away for the cold winter months, but Christmas or other plans need to be factored in, as they have the potential of disrupting your preparations. The Holland America vessels employed tend to vary, but have included the Prisendam (2005-06), the Amsterdam (2007-08, 2010-11), and the Rotterdam (2009). Information on 2011 is currently available, which suggests if you really want to plan ahead, you can have at least a year to do so.

While Los Angeles was the port of embarkation in 2005, all the other recent trips have departed from Fort Lauderdale. In some cases, a complete circuit is made; in others, you are dropped on the west coast – usually in Seattle or Los Angeles. (East Coast passengers may also be able to disembark in New York.) All trips tend to end sometime in late April, having a general duration of slightly over 100 days, or a bit more than three months.

The only major rule on ports is that nothing remains stationary. In order to encourage repeat business, the Line varies its itinerary, and when possible throws in new ports of call. This year, for example, the Amsterdam is paying a maiden call to Isla Robinson Crusoe, Chile, while next year will feature first-time stops in Oban, New Zealand and Palau. If one itinerary doesn’t seem attractive, wait a year and something else will pop up.

We were particularly taken by the opportunity to round both Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope, as well as transiting the Panama Canal. Next year, the Amsterdam will miss both of the Capes, but will add the Suez Canal and the Mediterranean. Over the years, there have been other changes in emphasis.

In 2005, for example, the Prinsendam made stops in Hawaii, Kiribati, Western Samoa, Tonga, New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, Brunei, Hong Kong, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, India, Sri Lanka, the Seychelles, Mauritius, Reunion, South Africa, Namibia, St. Helena, Ascension Island, Brazil, Barbados, and the Bahamas.

2006 saw visits to Barbados, Devil’s Island, multiple stops in Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, South Georgia, Tristan da Cunha, South Africa, Madagascar, the Comoros, Tanzania, Kenya, the Seychelles, India, Oman, the Suez Canal, Egypt, Turkey, Greece, Malta, Italy, France, Spain, and Madeira.

The Amsterdam's 2007 Cruise did the Panama Canal before stopping in Ecuador, Peru, Easter Island, Tahiti, American Samoa, Fiji, New Caledonia, Australia, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, India, Dubai, Oman, the Suez Canal and Egypt, Israel, Turkey, Greece, Croatia, Italy, Monaco, Spain, Gibraltar, and Portugal.

The following year it was the Cayman Islands, Costa Rica, a transit of the Panama Canal and Panama, the Marquesas, Tahiti, Bora Bora, Samoa, Tonga, New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, Brunei, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Singapore, India, Oman, Egypt, and the Suez Canal, Turkey, Russia, the Ukraine, Greece, Italy, Croatia, Malta, Gibraltar, Portugal and Madeira, and __ (Ireland Isle).

Last year, the Rotterdam hit Columbia, the Panama Canal, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Mexico, Los Angeles and Hawaii, Vanuatu, New Caledonia, Australia, Indonesia, Hong Kong and Shanghai, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, India, Dubai, Oman, the Seychelles, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, South Africa, Namibia, St. Helena, Ascension, Devil’s Island, Trinidad, Barbados, and St. Bartholomew.

This year we’re going where we’re going – follow this blog and you’ll eventually find out! In 2011, however, the Amsterdam hits Grand Cayman, Costa Rica, transits the Panama Canal, stops in Ecuador, Peru, Easter Island, Tahiti, Bora Bora, the Cook Islands, Niue, makes multiple stops in New Zealand and Australia and touches at Papua, New Guinea, Palau, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Singapore, India, Dubai, Oman, Jordan, the Suez Canal, and Egypt, Turkey, Greece, Italy, Spain and Madeira!

There’s no dull moment, even for repeat cruisers, and if you don’t like the itinerary one year, just wait until the next comes around!

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #14: GRAND VOYAGE DINNER

You’d think with all we’d said about food that none of the meals would stand out particularly. We’d have agreed until we came to the Grand Voyage Dinner. And it wasn’t until we showed up that we realized how really special this was.

That’s because the daily program got confusing. The Dinner occurred on the same day as the formal Black and White Dinner and Ball, an occasion for which they’d been decorating the La Fontaine Dining Room since early that morning. When we got an invitation from the Captain for the same night, we figured – well – more of the same. It, mind you, said something about meeting at the Rembrandt Lounge for drinks, but the two appeared to be compatible, and we were supposed to “reject” (and you think twice about “rejecting” the Captain, a person who, to some extent, has life and death power outside the territorial seas!)

The one problem was that the times were different – when Mary checked with the Front Desk about an hour before, it turned out that yes, the Grand Voyage Dinner was different. Giving a few guests (others would eventually have their chance) the opportunity to dine with the Ship’s officers. And the meal was to be held at the Pinnacle Grille, which is to the La Fontaine as the La Fontaine is to the Lido Restaurant.

We started out at the Rembrandt Lounge, and had just found an interesting couple from Ohio when dinner was called and we were taken to our assigned table at the Pinnacle Grille. We were seated with Dr. McConnell (and his wife), the Amsterdam’s doctor. Why? I guess they didn’t realize that the “Dr. Menefee” of the passenger list was a lawyer. The McConnell’s are from British Columbia. He has been with the Line for a number of voyages, and we have to say they were first-rate hosts and fascinating dinner partners. He is someone who really cares about his calling and had lots of insight about the Ship.

Menu? Well, we can give the details, but it doesn’t half convey the way things were cooked or the presentation. Think top restaurant you’ve ever been to (without the check at the end!). We started with “Pickled Lamb Salad,” moved on to “Beef Consommé Henri IV,” who I believe was the one who said that ‘Paris was worth a Mass’), “Peppered Tuna Loin,” “Medium Seared Beef Tenderloin,” and the “Grand Finale Dessert Surprise.” (This last was a collection of Petit Fouand Friandises.) The meal was complemented by California and Washington wines and finished off with a coffee. Although unexpected, this was one of the nicest experiences we have had aboard. We even had a chance to “cut the rug” at the Black and White Ball for a dance or two before we retired to our cabin! Mary feels that the treadmill is a necessity after the wonderful dinner.

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #11: A FEW MORE POINTS ABOUT SHIPBOARD LIFE

OK, as we charge down the western coast of South America, let’s take a bit of time to say something more about the Amsterdam. It really IS a good idea to preplan what you are taking and not assume you’ll be able to buy anything you need onboard – there are several shops, but the selection available is a contrast of some of the smartest and some of the dumbest marketing we’ve ever seen. Take the Logo Shop. This usually handles ship and line themed items, and is a bit like the shop at a good resort hotel. Of course, you never know how much of anything they’ll have, so the best thing is to buy early. Score one for the Line. Jackets, sweaters, and hoodies, shirts, a lot of the items are exactly what you would expect, classic and understated. Someone, however, has made the decision to push a series of goods dealing with “the whole dam line.” OK, it’s mildly clever and you could see a t-shirt or two perhaps, but the emphasis Holland America gives it is a lot like Cracker Barrel’s breakfast “coming right up …” campaign. We supposed it is better than “Holland America, not yet underwater,” but still leaves a bit to be desired. We are told that the goods will change during the voyage, but seeing is believing.

The Liquor Shop is much, much worse, if you understand that it includes the necessaries you’d buy in a corner store. You’d think they might have a guidebook or two for sale since they stock paperbacks, particularly right before we hit the appropriate port? You’d be wrong! There’s something like fifteen novels, sunscreen, batteries, cigarettes, alcohol, etc. etc. It’s like a motel convenience store on steroids.

If you want to buy high-end jewelry, however, then the Amsterdam can help you. It’s not our style – indeed this trip was in lieu of a “rock.” Mary does confess that she sat through an emerald lecture to be entered in the following draw – they didn’t make a sale and she didn’t win the stone. The people doing the offerings rotate on and off (H. Stern, for example, who deal with South American gemstones, will have their representative leave the ship by Argentina, we assume to get ready for someone specializing in diamonds or other African stones).

There’s also an art gallery (but realistic views of nature are not its strong point) as well as a photography studio. This is probably the most useful of all the shops, the photographers are quite helpful and have a number of packages for sale covering different groups of pictures – the final selection can be made at the end of the voyage. We believe they’re betting correctly – that at that point most people won’t want to leave any of the views behind. One of the photographers even filmed our progress through the Panama Canal from a helicopter as part of a series of DVD offerings.

Of equal value, but not directly selling anything is the digital lab aboard run by Microsoft. Jeff, the tech, not only holds daily classes while at sea, but also has “office hours.” During which, he will answer any difficult questions. We spoke to him, for example, about reducing and sending the photographs with which some of these postings are illustrated.

So there you have it – ranging from the useful and essential to the – well not so much. As your ship ID card is equivalent to plastic, you have to watch out and curb those urges to spend! There are plenty of opportunities in each port!