Sunday, March 21, 2010

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #32: OUT ON THE PAMPAS

How could we got to Argentina and not visit the Pampas? Friends we spoke with who had been on Holland America’s South American cruises said that this was the one not to miss, and we have to say we agree!




Not only did we get some good views of Buenos Aires (a city of dog-walkers and soccer fans) to fill things in a bit, but the Pan-American Highway gradually got us out into the countryside.

Heidi, our thoughtful guide, had even brought along some maté in a traditional cup to taste – it’s an herbal tea, a bit like chicory coffee.
We arrived at the Estancia Santa Sosana, where the meat was already smoking on the grill. Entertainment was provided by excellent concertina and guitar players. There was some dancing (with and without bolas) and the head gaucho, of course, picked Mary to lead off the dancing!
While the beef was still cooking, there was time to go through the house and chapel, take wagon or horseback rides or just sit around. We did a bit of everything and were rewarded by seeing a bit of the local ground owls – perched quizzically by their burrows.
For those of you familiar with the annual ring jousts at Mount Solon (America’s longest uninterrupted sporting event!), the gauchos do something similar with a stick, riding pell-mell down the course at the rings. This practice, called sorepifa is spectacular, and they have a high rate of success in spearing their prizes. They also showed off their skills with horses, although Sam was disappointed that there were no outside demonstrations of the bolas.
The meal, when it came, was worth the wait – Argentine beef lives up to its reputation! While this tour gave only the flavor of life on an estancia, we can’t think of a better way to spend the day – don’t blame Mary if you see Sam running around in a poncho back home!

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