Tuesday, February 2, 2010

GLOBAL ODYSSEY 2010 BLOG #20: “MEN CRY PISCO, PISCO…”

Have you ever gone to visit a friend or relative who took you around their town, but who had no idea what to show you? Then, friend, you know what a tour of Coquimbo, Chile, is like.


We were met by kids dancing on the dock, which should have warning enough. Nonetheless, like lambs to the slaughter, we boarded our tour bus. Evelyn, our guide, spoke good English, but her commentary was generally of the variety, “on the left is the beach, on the right are high-rise hotels” – useful if you were blind perhaps. Added to this was a particularly irritating flexibility of schedule – “be back at the bus – 45 minutes!” Only when you were – and everybody else was - we still puttered around another 15 minutes before we left. All you guides out there, consistency is what we want, consistency!

Our first stop was “a photographic opportunity” involving the El Faro Lighthouse, a symbol of La Serena, the regional capital. This would have been fine if the lighthouse had actually been a lighthouse, had dated from an early time (it was apparently erected in the 1950’s), or if the weather had been good (it was windy and drizzly).
Certainly worth a pass.

The Elqui Valley was a bit better – after all, it’s hard to ruin a region’s natural scenery, and this agriculture enclave, with cacti in the upper hills and a major dam was reasonably interesting. We stopped in the village of Vicuna, a potentially interesting town with its local Bauer Tower, and the home of Nobel-prize winner Gabriel Mistral (we hadn’t heard of her either), but it was unfocused – like wandering around the Main Street of a western town right before the big shoot-out. The visit was more a “rest stop with benefits.”

Ironically, the major plus of the day, was the stop that we had both dreaded, the tour of the National Drink Distillery Factory, which manufactures pisco. (Yes, we know they make it in Peru too, but between us, it’s too complicated a controversy to cover in a blog!) In any case, we thought this would be a sales opportunity, which, of course, it was. It was also, however, a cracking good tour, with visits to all parts of the plant and some (small) free samples at the end. One of the world’s most impressive bottles must be the pisco bottle resembling a Easter Island moai; who ever came up with that was a marketing genius! So what looked like it might be a debit on the trip, turned out to be its best feature.

It’s unclear why the advertised order of this tour was had changed; we finished off with another visit to an observation point (this at least better than the morning’s), a tour of La Serena’s Archeological Museum, and a short stop at the La Recova Handicraft Market. If anyone thought, the piscos imbibed might cause more money to be spent, they were in error. Our hands stayed in our pockets.

So, while the trip was not without its rewards, we left a bit frustrated, feeling that we had not experienced all that the area had to offer. We would thus far give Holland America very high grades on its shore side partners, but our experience here could hardly rate above a C-.

No comments:

Post a Comment